Tuesday, April 12, 2016

FDR chair ready for finish

Installing the arms was the last major thing remaining on this chair.  They are held in place by half inch dowels, two through the back into the arms and two through the arms into the front legs.  I clamped them securely into place and drilled the holes:


I would have liked to use a brace and bit for this, but, if there is a bit that will make a hole in white oak end grain, I don't own it.  My only alternative is a cordless drill and brad point bit.

I cleaned out the holes carefully by running the bit in and out several times.  Because I know dowels are a tight fit, I put them through the dowel former multiple times and even drove them dry through the hole in the back for good measure.  Nevertheless, when I applied glue to the dowels, it was a real struggle to get them in.  I wish my Lee Valley dowel former was a bit more undersized (I checked the drill bit and it is dead on.).

All's well that ends well, and the chair is finally ready for finish.  Notice how the arms make a second Timberline arch:




8 comments:

  1. The chair looks real good. I still haven't tried a making a chair yet and this may be the impetus I need.

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    1. Ralph,

      I really recommend it; it was definitely a challenge and skill-builder for me.

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  2. Congratulation for the achievement.
    Sylvain

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  3. Andy,

    Next time you use dowels try one of the liquid hide glues, either Old Brown or Titebond. Both work well, I use Old Brown but it is harder to find. The reason I suggest hide glue is it will act as a lubricant and does not "swell" the wood like modern glues do.

    Your experience sounds like classic "glue lock".

    I almost forgot to add the most important part....Your chair looks great, congrats.

    ken

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    1. Ken,

      Thanks for the suggestion on the hide glue, which I will definitely try. Every time I have gone to the store to pick up Titebond hide glue, all the bottles are within a few months of expiration so I don't have any.

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  4. I had wondered about boring holes in end grain with brace and bit. I've done it in soft wood with standard Jennings pattern bit, but never tried it in hard wood. Any idea what type of bit may have been used? The chair is looking great. Can't wait to see it with some finish on it.

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    Replies
    1. I just have Irwin bits with coarse lead screws. I would like to try a Jennings pattern bit with a fine lead screw like Tools for Working Wood sells, but they are very expensive ($33.45 for the half inch one).

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